Abstract
Glyoxylic acid (GA), the active ingredient of heat-activated hair straightening products (GHSPs) has been discussed in the context of acute kidney injury (AKI) via oxalic acid (OA) crystal formation and of heat-decomposition resulting in release of formaldehyde. Assessment of dermal absorption following realistic GHSP treatments with two marketed products resulted in maximally 7.73 μg/cm2 of bioavailable GA/application. Considering the scalp area of 580 cm2, the systemic GA exposure of consumers was 4.48 mg, equivalent to 1.1 mg OA taking into account that 25% GA is dermally metabolized to OA. Assessment of GA exposure to stylists’ hands indicated systemic OA levels in the range of 0.026 mg/day (assuming 3 treatments in one day). Compared to typical dietary and endogenous sources of OA of 22–45 mg/day, GHSP-dependent OA exposures of consumers and stylists were 20–41-fold and > 860-fold lower, respectively. PBK prediction of GHSP-dependent renal OA excretion of consumers was <1.27 mg/day compared with normal excretion of ∼25 mg/day and the 40 mg/day threshold associated with AKI. Predicted kidney OA concentrations during GHSP exposure further indicated that OA crystal formation is unlikely to occur. Assessment of the release of the GA heat-decomposition byproduct formaldehyde in the ambient air during GHSP treatment was <25 μg/m3 and below regulatory exposure limits e.g., 100 μg/m3 (WHO indoor air quality limit). In conclusion, quantification of GA-dependent formaldehyde and OA exposure indicates no health concerns for consumers and stylists under the described realistic GHSP treatment conditions.
By Nicola J. Hewitt, Carsten Goebel, Jens Diller, Anne Fuchs, Rolf Fautz, Brunhilde Blömeke, Katharina Schwarz, Shimpei Terasaka, Kazutoshi Saito, Rebecca Justiniano, Gábor von Bölcsházy